“Only the pots know the boiling of their broth.”
When we think of the day-to-day hustle and bustle at home, it is very common for one of the meeting places to be the kitchen, either because the most memorable talks take place there, or because between breakfast and lunch, along with the laundry of the endless frets, life is resolved or because the kitchen has been linked as the natural refuge of the mother, grandmother, woman.
However, if we talk about the kitchens of large restaurants, it is the men who have taken the upper hand, a revealing fact if we consider that it was women who shaped the first food preparation areas and, once acquired a symbolic and economic recognition, was that the men put on the cap and the Filipina, but once outside, cooking at home is still a thing for the ladies.
Around the world, relatively recently, awareness of this disparity was realized and, in the case of Mexico, the mayoras or traditional cooks began to be revalued, women who from a very young age began to take a liking to the pinch of salt, the texture of the dough, the roasting of the chiles in a comal and the exact point of the meat for a good entomatado. At the same time, chefs began to take the screen sharing their recipes, a pioneer was Chepina Peralta, who at the end of the 60s began to cook on open television, continued Paulino on Canal Once, a banquet chef who was discovered at a social event and there to stardom, a special place is occupied by Yuri de Gortari and Edmundo Escamilla, who also had a strong presence on television with their recipes and investigations of gastronomic history, later other programs appeared on private television, supplements in newspapers, YouTube channels and on Currently, chefs, cooks on networks such as Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and TikTok exceed thousands of pleasureswe could say that it is a more even floor, but no, there is more income for men and sometimes they don’t even prepare what they present, behind them there are women cooking.
It is noteworthy that, despite the lack of spaces and recognition, every day there are more women who are encouraged to recover the kitchen, either by putting their soul in each dish or through research and food documentation. Thus, we can mention Guillermina Ordoñez, majority of Nicos; to the doctor in ethnohistory Laura Corona, Mónica Patiño, Elena Reygadas and Graciela Montaño, to mention just a few.
I am going to focus on Graciela, as she has seasoned her way to a slow fire and has positioned herself as a representative of women in the kitchen in recent years. She is a graduate of the School of Mexican Gastronomy, History, Art and Culture, she also specialized as a sommelier and certified tequila taster, she founded Aura Cocina Mexicana, a studio for the creation and teaching of traditional Mexican dishes, shortly before confinement began. the return to the pandemic with online classes, which have been taken by more than 70 thousand people in Mexico, Latin America and Europe. She became an ambassador for the Central de Abasto and also collaborates as an ambassador for Pure Earth and the approved Barro project, an initiative that seeks to raise awareness among potters about the use of lead-free glazes. For now, they have worked in communities in the municipality of Acteopan. and Cohuecán, Puebla.
Grace Montano the same share a recipe in a Live On her Instagram account @gracielamontanomx, she prepares virtual or face-to-face experiences at auramexcooking.com, designs the menu for an event that shares her journey through different corners of the country looking for traditional ingredients, utensils or clothing that she presents on her Facebook page. A woman of her time who not only reconquered the kitchen, but also takes it to different levels and writes her own story. Pure inspiration, I don’t know about you, but after reviewing chef Montaño’s accounts so much, it made me want to go to the market to buy supplies to prepare some shrimp tacos dipped in cilantro sauce and a very cold one for the heat. Bon Apetit!