I know that you, dear gastronaut #Update, have been tempted on more than one occasion by this centenary typical dish of Mexican cuisine, specifically of the Defeña or Chilanga cuisine, as you prefer to call it. Today we leave aside the controversy a bit and focus purely on gastronomy, in particular street cuisine. Today’s topic, cake.
Just as Mexican cuisine is wide and varied, the case of cake is very similar, obviously depending on the region of the country that we mention will be the bread used. If already with the bread that is used, bolillo, telera or virote, we find a wide variety of styles now add the filling. We can find, for example, thedrowned”, stuffed with carnitas and bathed in a spicy sauce or like the famous cake “lambada” emphasizing the mythical Brazilian dance because said cake takes a lot of leg.
We can’t get past theturkeys”, a bolillo stuffed with tamale, the “macaws” stuffed with dry or hard pork rinds with avocado and pico de gallo. The mythical cake of the “guy“stuffed with ham or what does the cake tell me”Cuban” which is filled with “everything”.
We can give many more examples, but I suppose that if I come to read this post because of what the title says, it is because you want to know the origin of “the cake”.
A very short story that doesn’t seem true
The creation of the cake, according to some researchers, is attributed to the very Leonardo da Vinci. It is said that in an effort to look good with his protector lodovico sforzaI take him to prepare a kind of sandwich with two pieces of meat between white bread. But this sounds more like a stuffed baguette than a good Mexican torta.
The first historical record
In the late 1900s there was a conservative newspaper by the name of “the green bird” founded by Don Ignacio Aguilar y Marocho in the 19th century and which, among other news, had a notices section. Just in this newspaper on February 8, 1864 there is an advertisement for the sale of a dish similar to a cake, however many historians agree that the shape of the cake as we know it today dates back to Porfirista Mexico.
Don Armando Ramírez Centurión, the father of the cake.
It was the year 1892, when an 11-year-old boy named arming and with the need at his expense, he began to sell food at the door of his house. Without having much knowledge of food, the only thing he could think of was to buy some bolillos and fill them with food. This is how the story began, but if the dish was so simple…
What was it that made it so popular?
Well, it was that, although Armando was a simple and humble man, he always wore a shirt and tie when preparing his cakes, he said that selling cakes should not be badly dressed. And notice dear reader how life is ironic and gives us its contrasts, currently no tortero works with a tie.
And that is how this preparation became much more widely known, not because of the fact of the food itself, but because of who prepared it. Such was the fame of Don Armando that when the Palace of Fine Arts was inaugurated in 1974, he was invited.
Its flagship preparations, although there are few references, are said to be cod cake, sardine cake and pork cheese cake. However, as happens on a day-to-day basis, many people began to copy Armando’s business model, but without taking care of quality or personal hygiene.
That is when the neighborhood torterias began to become popular, neither so clean nor so honest, to such an extent that by 1895 the first complaints arose before the authorities to regulate these activities and with this fact we start the relocation of positions and regulation of hygiene.
But since not everything can be hunky-dory, Don Armando Ramírez died suddenly in 1935 at the age of 54. Today his name has gone down in Mexican culinary history, and his family continues to maintain it with the same quality for more than 100 years in the “Armando’s” tortería at 24 Humboldt Street esq. Paseo de la Reforma, in Mexico City.
The cake will always be in Mexican homes, beyond the happy meal and industrialized products, because a cake always gets Mexican moms out of trouble.
Until next time.