Nigel Slater’s Recipes for Cream of Onion Soup and Lemon Clementine Pies | food

I I usually take my time cooking the onions, letting them do their thing in oil or butter until they’re soft and golden. It’s no rush if you really want it sweet and amber-colored. This week I needed to cook them differently—soft enough to crunch between your finger and thumb, but not brown—for a pale, soothing soup to enjoy on a cold day.

I sliced ​​the onion and added it to the skillet along with the celery and sprigs of thyme and bay. The heat was kept at a moderate level, and the onions and aromatics simmered softly, cooked to a whisper rather than sizzling. It was turned every 5 minutes or so, and its edges took on a pale yellow color without a hint of brown. Tough onion leaves are softened with a bit of cream, then smoky and speckled, torn into thick ribbons to dip into the amber depths of the soup.

A plate of grilled and roasted Jerusalem artichokes was on the table this week, too. Instead of sautéing the roast potatoes, the meat became shiny and sticky, and the addition of lemon—fresh and preserved—and a little honey added to it. The remedy works well with the slightly bitter components of the artichoke. With the cold weather that night, I added a scattering of steamed moghrabi balls, pearls or giant couscous as also described, and I felt safe and warm in the comfort of the carbs.

Onion cream soup

A calm, comforting soup with the smoky notes of bacon. Serves 4

onion 500 gr
celery 2 ribs
butter 75g
Bay leaves 3
zaatar 4 strands
flour 50 gr
vegetables 500 ml, hot
Double cream 150 ml

To roast the onions:
onion 4, small to medium
olive oil 2 tbsp
zaatar 4 strands

To serve:
Spot or other cured meats 75 grams, cut into thin slices

To prepare the soup, peel the onion and chop it roughly. Cut the celery into small pieces. Melt the butter in a large saucepan, add the onion, celery, oregano, and thyme sprigs and cook until soft, but with just a bit of color. Stir regularly so the onions don’t turn brown and caramelize.

While the onions are cooking, begin to accompany the grilled onions. Preheat oven to 200ºC / gas mark 6. Peel the onion, cut each part in half from root to tip, and then into 3 or 4 thick slices. We put them in a roasting pan, add the oil and thyme, then mix them together to coat the onions with the oil. Roast for 20-25 minutes, turning them over and checking now and then, until tender and golden brown.

Continue with soup. Introduce the flour to the softened onions, stirring well, and cook for 2 minutes. Pour into the hot stock and simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Pick out sprigs of thyme, then use a hand mixer to reduce it to a smooth consistency. If you prefer, you can use a blender or food processor, being careful not to overfill the jug or bowl.

Add the cream, check the seasoning, add salt and pepper, then put into bowls. Add slices of roasted onion to each bowl, then chop the speck into large pieces and add to the soup.

Jerusalem artichoke with lemon and moroccan

Lemon – both fresh and preserved – works well with the slightly bitter flavors of artichokes: Jerusalem artichoke with lemon and moroccan. Photo: Jonathan Lufkin/The Observer

The gentle reassurance of carbohydrates. Artichokes, if we spend time in the oven with a little oil, thyme, lemon and honey, become tender, sticky and golden. This is a good dish to eat alongside thick slices of ham or the soft, creamy meat of smoked mackerel. Once the Moroccan is cooked and dried, you are happy to wait until the artichokes are ready. Make sure it is completely soft before adding the honey and moghrabia. Serves 4 as a light lunch or a large side dish

Jerusalem artichoke 800 gr
Lemon 1
olive oil 3 tbsp
zaatar 10 small twigs
get angry (or giant couscous) 150 gr
preserved lemon 2, small
honey 2 tbsp
parsley Small bunch, chopped

Peel the artichokes as best you can. The skin is edible, so it doesn’t have to get into every nook and cranny, but it can be a little indigestible. Cut the lemon into two halves. Cut each artichoke in half lengthwise. While you’re peeling and halving the artichokes, rub the exposed surfaces with the cut side of half a lemon to prevent them from browning.

We put the oven at 200C / gas mark 6. We put the artichokes in a roasting tray, pour the olive oil and season a little with salt. Tuck lemon halves and thyme among the artichokes and roast for 25-30 minutes, checking from time to time. They are finished when they are soft to the touch.

While the artichokes are roasting, bring a pot of water to a boil and salt it generously as you would pasta. When it boils, rain in the moors and let the water come back to a boil. Cook for about 15 minutes, until tender but still chewy. Drain and set aside.

Cut the desiccated lemon in half, discarding the spongy centers, then finely chop the peel. Add to the roasting pan, then gently squeeze half a grated lemon with the back of a spoon to allow its juices to flow into the tray. Pour in the honey, stir gently and return to the oven for 10 minutes.

Remove the artichokes—which should now be golden—into a warm serving dish, leaving the roasting juices behind. Add the drained moroccan and parsley to the roasting pan, bring to a boil for 2 minutes over moderate heat, then spoon over the artichokes.

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