tThe thrifty and simple adi mousse can be made with leftovers by the side of smoked salmon or with trimmings bought at the fishmonger, which are often sold at imitation, making for an economical and waste-saving ingredient, in addition to being delicious.
Buckwheat and cheddar cheese with smoked salmon mousse
Smoked salmon trimmings, which are best kept in an airtight container in the fridge, can be made into all kinds of dishes, from mousse, terrine, salad and chowder to frittata, quiche and fish cakes, says The Secret Smokehouse in Hackney, east London. Pasta, risotto and scones. Smoked salmon pairs particularly well with dill, black pepper, chives, soft cheese or fresh cream, lemon, capers, spring greens, rye, and crunchy vegetables (radishes and cucumbers, for example), so keep this in mind when you come up with a dish to use for your smoked salmon, if I was lucky enough to not have any fish left. Here, I’ve made a simple smoked salmon mousse out of the trimmings, which can be served on crackers, as a dip for bread or, more elaborately, in gougeres with cheese of the day. Cheddar is cooked through, so it’s also a great way to use up aged, cracked cheese and/or cheese rind.
50 grams of salmon trimmings
80 grams of cream cheese
30 grams of yogurt
1 sprig of dillplus more soft twigs for serving
Zest and juice of ¼ lemon (unwaxed and organic, for preference)
Sea salt and black pepper
80 grams of unsalted butter
Half a teaspoon of sea salt
75 ml of full fat milk
70 grams of flour – I use a mixture of 50g plain white flour and 20g whole wheat flour, but any glutenous flour will do
3 medium eggs
40 grams of hard cheese (eg, mature cheddar, gruyere, parmesan), grated, plus extra for garnish
First prepare the smoked salmon mousse. Place the fish trimmings, cream cheese, yogurt, dill sprig (including the stem), lemon juice, and zest into a blender and blend smoothly. Season gently to taste, if needed.
Now for gougeres. Preheat the oven to 200°C (fan 180°C) / 390°F / gas 6. Melt the butter in a pan with ½ teaspoon of sea salt, add the milk and 75ml of water and bring to a boil. Add the flour, reduce the heat and stir vigorously until the mixture holds together into a dough. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl, then add the lightly beaten eggs one at a time. Finally, add 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and the grated cheese (old or rind cheese works well).
Line a large baking sheet with damp (but not wet) parchment paper and line it with teaspoon-sized balls of batter, spaced 2 cm apart. Sprinkle with more grated cheese, then bake for 25 minutes, until the jojirs are puffy, dark golden brown, and crunchy. Gently prick the base of each piece with a toothpick or skewer – this will prevent it from deflating – and return it to the oven for five minutes. Leave to cool slightly, open, fill each one with salmon prunes and a sprig of dill, and serve.