Rachel Roddy’s Festive Pasta Recipes | food

tIt was flat, on the third floor of a 20th-century building off Viale Angelico (meaning Angelique Avenue), warm and smelled of wax, clementine, braised broth and fabric softener. Everyone arrived around noon and put their coats on the extra bed. Conversations and laughter filled the room as family members and two friends (some of whom had not seen each other since the previous Christmas) shared stories about their trip and the joys of parking when half of Rome is somewhere else. Gifts were placed under the tree, tinfoiled contributions in the kitchen and bottles on the sideboard by the figs. Children were kissed and teenagers were praised for increasing their height.

Shortly after 12:30 a glass cart with gold handles was moved and stopped near a sideboard. On it were chips, pretzels, huge olives (each impaled with a toothpick) and triangles of white bread—one half covered with salmon, the other with what looked like olive paste. There was a short discussion about what to drink, because two bottles weren’t considered cold enough yet. Bottles were crushed in the freezer for quick cooling, while others were corked and cups filled.

Shortly after one o’clock, as soon as everyone had settled down at a table laid the night before with the best dressing, cutlery and crystal, a salad the size of a watermelon was brought. It had a steaming broth and 200 tortellini bobbing on its surface. There is a legend about this noodle shape that includes a keyhole and a belly button. More interesting, I think, is the diminutive: tortellini – very small stuffed noodles, they themselves are very small tortelliSmall stuffed spaghetti which is again a telescoping one Tortapie or cake. A friend describes it as rings of pasta filled with a pate-like dough of mortadella, ham, prosciutto and Parmesan. They’re painstaking in making, and at Viale Angelico, much appreciation is greeted: “Amazing, incredible, wonderful.”

The crackle of a lambrusco cork was followed by almost silence as everyone focused on how many tortellini they could get on the spoon. Noisy again, and as the dishes were cleaned, roast veal stuffed with chestnuts appeared, various vegetables too, and more wine opened. Next came a large bowl of fennel, nuts, and fruit, for which the men brought small knives and sloughed off the peel in one strip. Someone unwrapped the panettone, while someone else moved the contents of the liquor cabinet to the center of the table. Filled with food and wine, and seated around a crowded table, everyone was a little red and the scene was warm with red lust.

This is a selective saying, of course. It also reeks of apartment polish and days of labor by someone who wished she had never had such a compulsion to clean; to whom she seemed an effortless hostess who demanded every gram of effort and a new crown. Two relatives remain on opposite sides of the room and everyone hopes their opposing political views will remain that way, even after Grappa. Two mothers chatted competitively, trying to extract as much information as possible from the other, while the grandson, much taller and thinner than the year before, ate only broth and fennel. And now my narrative has turned away in the opposite direction, into a luncheon of hidden resentment, grief, compulsion, and indigestion.

But she swings again. As dishes are being carried into the kitchen, someone begins to sing along with a granddaughter at the piano while one mother says to another: “There’s a possibility of getting a scholarship, you know? The teacher says she’s very talented!” The cards are over, and the older ones are teaching the younger ones to play broom, Seven times seven, five and one-sixth. A movie is planned. By six, the house reeks of grappa, spiced biscuits, and melted plastic, because one of the apartments in Viale Angelico’s Christmas lights has merged with an angel hanging on a Christmas tree.

Tortellini in Brodo (top photo)

Small belly-button-like pasta stuffed with ham and Parmesan, tortellini typical of the Emilia-Romagna region. They are much easier than you might imagine and are cooked directly into the broth they are served with. They also make the typical and sublime Christmas first course. This recipe makes about 220 tortellini. It’s small, so estimated 30 per person. Many hands are useful here. Once prepared, the pasta will keep, covered, for up to 2 days in the refrigerator; It also freezes brilliantly, as does any leftover filling.

to equip 15 minutes
Cold Overnight
cook 2 hours 15 minutes
serves 6-8

to fill
30 grams of butter
100 grams of ground pork
100 grams of pork
100 grams of mortadella
1 egg yolk
150 gr
Parmesan cheesegrated, plus more for serving
Salt and black pepper
Nutmegto taste

For pasta
200 grams of plain flour

for broth
800 grams of chicken thighs
1 veal bone (my choice)
1 onion
Peeled and cut in half
1 carrotPeeled and cut in half
1 Celery stickHalf
1 bay leaf
A few peppers

First, make the filling. In a heavy-based skillet, melt the butter, then add the pork and cook, tossing the ground beef into the skillet, stirring until slightly golden. Remove the pork from the skillet, place it in a bowl, and let it cool.

Chop the prosciutto and mortadella very finely (use a meat grinder, food processor, or a very sharp knife), chop them roughly into a paste, then add them to the bowl of ham along with the egg yolks, Parmesan, salt, pepper, and lots of nutmeg. Use your hands to knead everything to get a consistent, uniform dough, then cover and put in the fridge to rest overnight.

Start the broth: Place the chicken and veal bones, if using, in a large, heavy pot.
Cover the pan with two liters of cold water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, then lower the heat and skim off any foam that has risen to the surface. Add the vegetables, bay leaf and peppercorns, bring to a boil again, then lower the heat again, cover the pan and simmer for 1 hour and 15 minutes. Gravy reservation strain.

Meanwhile, make the pasta dough. Mix the flour and eggs, then use your hands to mix and knead into a consistent ball of dough. Cut the dough in two, then use a pasta machine to pass it through all the stages to get the thinnest sheets possible. Cut the pasta into long lengths into manageable 20 cm slices.

Using a sharp knife, cut each sheet of dough into 2cm squares. Working a few squares at a time (and covering the rest with a cloth or plastic wrap so they don’t dry), place a pea-sized dot of filling in the center of each square. Pick up the square, fold it in half diagonally, then use both thumbs to press and flatten the edges to seal, and fold the corners down. Now, with the point to the sky, close the triangle in a loop around the tip of your index finger, making a tapered ring, and press firmly to make sure it is closed. Repeat the process with the remaining pasta and filling.

Bring the strained chicken broth to a steady boil, then bring the tortellini to a boil for five or six minutes, or until tender. Serve immediately, with cheese added on the side.

Fiona Beckett drinks match

Less than £10
Marks and Spencer Federico de Castelli de Jessi El Clasico 2021 £8, 13% off. Clean, crisp, very dry, not too fruity – and perfect with this delicate dish.

over £10
Susumoro Lambrusco di Modena Castelvetro £13.29 Major Wine Company, 11%. According to Rachel, wild red lambrusco is the classic pairing for tortellini in brodo, and is sometimes even drizzled in broth. I prefer it myself with turkey sarni, but give it a try.

Tembalo with mushrooms

Pasta Pie: Rachel Ruddy’s Tempalo with Mushrooms.

Baked festive macaroni with two kinds of mushrooms, cheese and bechamel. It is really important that the mushrooms are well marinated and full of flavour. Ideally, you’ll make this in a dome-shaped tin, large mold, or even a deep-dish cake pan—the more dramatic, the better. You’re going to flip it over then, so it’s important that the pasta doesn’t stick – make sure you butter and bread crumbs in a tin well.

to equip 10 minutes
cook 1 hour
serves 6

50 grams of porcini
500 gr Field mushrooms or chestnutscut into slices
2 cloves of garlic
A few fresh twigs zaatarpicking leaves
Salt and black pepper
40 grams
2 tablespoons of olive oil
600 grams of short tube pasta
(such as tubetti, ditalini, or mezze Maniche)
Butter and bread crumbsFor greasing and lining the tin
60 grams of Parmesan cheesegrated, plus more for serving
150 grams of cheese
Small, thin slices

for bechamel
50g butter
50 grams of flour

700 ml of milk

Soak the porcini in 300ml of warm water for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a frying pan, sauté the fresh mushrooms, the garlic, the thyme, and the salt in the butter and the oil, until they begin to soften and give off some liquid: being careful not to overcook and boil them; There should be some delicious rich juices. Remove the pan from the heat, drain and chop the porcini and stir into the pan of mushrooms.

Cook the pasta in boiling salted water for 2 minutes less than the recommended cooking time, then drain and set aside. butter and breadcrumbs in your chosen tempalo tin, and preheat oven to 200°C (fan 180°C) / 390°F / Gas 6

Now make the béchamel. In a medium skillet set over medium-low heat, combine the butter and flour and cook, stirring, until the butter melts and forms a thick, cookie-like batter. Whisk in the milk and cook, stirring constantly, until the raw flour taste has melted and the sauce has thickened. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

In a large bowl, mix the pasta, three-quarters of the mushrooms, and three-quarters of the bechamel. Put half of this mixture into the tin, and then flatten the surface. Top with a layer of the remaining mushrooms, top with the remaining béchamel, then sprinkle with the grated Parmesan and the talleggio slices. Pour the remaining pasta mixture, mushrooms, and béchamel, and level the top.

Bake the tembalo for 20 minutes, then remove and let it rest for a few minutes. Place a plate on top, flip it over to flip it and release the tembalo from its box, and serve immediately with a hefty green salad and grated Parmesan cheese.

Fiona Beckett drinks match

Less than £10
Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2019 £7.99 Lidl, 14% off. Cleverly packaged Valpoles that would look good on the Christmas table.

over £10
EH Booth & Co Barolo 2017 £19, 14% off. An exceptionally elegant and distinctive Barolo, perfect for rich timbalo. (The private Barulus Aldi and Majestic, while not in the same class, are pretty decent too.)

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