Caramelized roll stuffed with mushrooms, onions and chestnuts
This is an interesting vegetarian centerpiece inspired by a recipe in an old book called Moldovan Cuisine, in which cabbage is cooked in stock. I prefer steaming cabbage, especially if you’re using the fine-grained (AKA pointed) variety. If your cabbage is very large, you may need to steam it for a little longer than the recipe says: use your instinct here. The filling can be made in advance and frozen and then thawed before stuffing into the cabbage.
to equip 20 minutes
cook 50 minutes
200 grams of chestnut mushrooms
1 medium pointed cabbage (about 800 grams)
40 grams Butter or oil
2 banana leeksfinely chopped
100 grams of shiitake mushrooms
50 gr Cooked chestnutscoarsely chopped (or toasted pine nuts or nuts)
To prepare the sauce
1 small garlic clovepeeled
100 ml of fresh cream
Salt and Pepper
A pinch of paprika – I especially like smoked things
Grate the mushrooms on the coarse side of the grater (this is much easier than chopping them finely). Cut off the top 5 cm of the beloved cabbage and chop it into thin slices. (If you’re using regular white cabbage, and it’s on the large side, cut it in half across the equator—half will feed four; if you have a larger end, use both halves and double the amounts for stuffing.)
To prepare the sauce, grate the garlic finely in a bowl, then add the fresh cream, a pinch of salt and pepper and a pinch of paprika.
Melt the butter or oil over medium-low heat, add the shallots and a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring frequently, for 10-15 minutes, until soft and slightly golden.
Add the mushrooms and shredded cabbage and cook for another five to 10 minutes. Season generously, then add the chestnuts (or nuts). The filling should be well seasoned.
Snip the stem off the bottom of the cabbage so it can stand upright, but don’t take off so much that the layers loosen. Place the cabbage upright in a steamer (if the steamer isn’t large enough to hold them, use a large colander over a pot of simmering water and cover with a lid) and steam for about 15 minutes (or a little longer if your cabbage is large with leaves closed tightly); You need the cabbage to be soft enough to make stuffing easier.
Preheat oven to 240°C (Fan 220°C) / 465°F / Gas 9. Gently open the sheets and stuff the filling generously between them. Brush the outsides and any exposed leaves with a little oil, then grill for five minutes. It should be charred and delicious in appearance; If you feel it needs more color, give it another five minutes.
Serve whole at the table, then cut into wedges and serve with fresh garlic cream.
Brussels sprouts in a miso butter and honey glaze
These are inspired by the Vichy-style carrots, glazed with honey butter. If you have any leftovers, they will be a very tasty and squeaky bubble.
to equip 10 minutes
cook 15 minutes
serves 4-6 (as a side)
500 grams of sprouts
40 grams of butter
1 tablespoon of miso paste
1 tablespoon of honey
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
A pinch of sea salt
If the buds are small, leave them out, but cut them in half – I prefer using cut buds here, as the miso butter clings to the cut sides more easily.
Put the sprouts and butter in an 20cm frying pan and place over medium heat. Once the butter has melted, add four tablespoons of water, cover with a tight-fitting lid and let it cook over medium-low heat for five minutes.
Remove the lid, add the miso, honey, and thyme, and cook for another five minutes, or until you’re satisfied with their tenderness—I prefer sprouts that are easy to cut with a regular butter knife—but use your judgment. If at any time the miso and honey look as if they are going to stick to the bottom of the pan, add a little water and remove the ice from the pan.
When the sprouts are ready, serve them immediately or leave them in the skillet, ready to quickly reheat later.
Fiona Beckett drinks match
Less than £10
Chateau guiute costars of name 2019 £9.99 (or £7.99 on a ‘mix six’) Majestic, 13.5% off. The warm, generous Côte du Rhône-like red color pairs beautifully with the cabbage—it’s not certified organic, but takes a slightly intrusive approach.
Monsant Comunica La Pua Blanco Celler Comunica 2019 £17.37 Les Caves de Pyrène, £19 The Good Wine Shop, 13.5% off. Orange wine would be a great pairing with stuffed cabbage, and this deep-colored Spanish white garnish is a great example.