Rachel Roddy’s recipe for fettuccine with chicken livers and mushroom ragu | food

sSometimes, on Saturday mornings, we drive to Gatti & Antonelli. It is one of the many in Rome Fresh pasta (fresh egg noodles), which is definitely one of the shop’s best. It’s a wonderful space, with a long marble counter, a window to the back workshop, bright yellow signs with timings and prices, two shelves displaying eggs and a large collection of young ornamental chickens. When my son was young, one of the few occasions I didn’t mind him screaming, was because he expressed what I felt: “Chickens! Look at the chickens! Can I hold one?” They are treasures, then allowing me to carry a baby elephant, which I squeezed until it brought me luck.

After decades of me and years of my son screaming, we now choose which hen to keep – the golden-necked one, or the white one that looks like an egg? – While we wait in line. Behind the marble counter, patchwork like cheese, two women in white coats and blue hair nets efficiently serve, lifting long and short pasta from shallow boxes onto stiff paper trays—tortellini, agnolotti, ravioli, fettuccine, tonarelli, pappardelle. The scent at Gatti is hopeful and gentle, like fresh sawdust and clean baby. Much has come for Agnolotti stuffed with meat (Agnolotti stuffed with meat) – the house specialty. However, I did come for the fettuccine.

At first glance, the long, skinny fettuccine appears to be the tagliatelle’s identical twin. If you look closely, you’ll notice that it’s 8mm less rigid than its northern cousin: it’s either thicker or thinner, and not as skinnily wrapped, so with more material—rather like the Romans. Fettuccine means “little ribbons,” and they are direct ancestors of wisp-thin Angel hair. In the hands of the armed home cooks, the wisps became hand-rolled ribbons and served on Sundays, often with meat ragu and often with gifts

in Rome, Reggaeli is The generic term for chicken giblets. traditionally, Fettuccine with giblets It was an economical dish that used that good but cheaper part of the chicken (along with a little ground beef and pancetta). This version uses only liver (although you can use giblets) and includes marsala and mushrooms, which both bring a deep flavour; Also sage for a musty contrast and butter for flavor and shine. Fresh fettuccine or tagliatelle are perfect here, as is dried.

Fettuccine with chicken liver and mushroom ragu

to equip 20 minutes
cook 20 minutes
serves 4

250 grams of chicken liver
40 grams of butter
2 t
tablespoon olive oil
2 leeks
Peeled and finely chopped
1 clove of garlicPeeled and finely chopped
50 grams of pancettacubes
100 grams of minced beef
30 grams of porcini mushrooms
soaked in 150 ml of warm water
3 whole sage leaves
Salt and black pepper
1 teaspoon tomato paste
dissolved in 150 ml of Marsala water, vermouth or porcini water
500g fresh or 400g dried fettuccine, tagliatelle or pappardelle
Parmesan or pecorinograted

Bring a pot of water to boil for the pasta. Trim the liver of any tendons or discoloration, then wash and pat dry. Cut each liver into six.

In a heavy-based skillet over medium-low heat, heat the butter and olive oil, then sauté the shallots until soft and translucent. Add the garlic, pancetta, ground beef, drained and chopped porcini (reserving the soaking liquid if you prefer to use it in place of the marsala or vermouth later) and sage, and cook, stirring, for a few minutes.

Raise the heat, add the liver and fry, stirring, until it loses any browning. Add the tomato-marsala mixture and simmer just long enough for the liver to take on the flavours, but not so long that it becomes rubbery.

Meanwhile, salt the boiling water, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain, reserving some of the cooking water, then put the noodles in the chicken liver pan and stir-fry, adding a little more of the cooking water if it needs to, until everything just comes together. Serve with plenty of grated Parmesan or pecorino.

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