THere’s one thing better than a roast chicken lunch, and that’s what you can make with your leftovers. The pressure ends, flavors often improve over time, and everything you create feels like alchemy, having made something out of what could have been nothing. It’s not just leftover meat and vegetables: there’s also the cheese crust that you don’t throw away, that bunch of tired herbs and spices that need to be consumed…
Creeblach dumplings in mom’s chicken soup
Creplash is the Yiddish word for dumplings, often stuffed with meat or cheese; Sometimes, as here, it is served in chicken broth. Everyone has their favorite chicken soup, and this one was inspired by Roma Felstein, my colleague Jake’s mother. It is soup for the soul.
to equip 15 minutes
cook 1 hour 35 minutes
serve 4 as a key
500 grams cooked chicken carcass (for example, from a medium-sized bird)
1 leek (200g), peeled and roughly chopped
2 sticks of celery (180 g), trimmed and roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
Half a teaspoon pepper
¼ teaspoon whole spices
3 islands (260g), peeled and roughly chopped
25 grams piece of Parmesan peel
1 garlic onioncut in half horizontally
Sea salt and black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped dill leavesto end
1 onion (180 g), peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon olive oil
200 gm cooked chicken meatfinely shredded,
25 gm parmesan cheesefinely grated
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon of dillcoarsely chopped
200g kimchiExcess liquid pressed, discarded, then grated (120 g)
1 eggto be beaten
30 8 x 8 cm Fresh meat pie plates
Put all the broth ingredients except the spices and dill in a large saucepan, cover with 1.8 liters of cold water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for an hour and a half; Do not let the broth boil or it may turn cloudy. Remove from heat and simmer for 10 minutes, then pass through a strainer into a medium saucepan (you should have about a quart of broth) and stir in 1/4 teaspoon salt.
Meanwhile, start stuffing the crêplash. Put the onions in a small saucepan with the oil and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, put it on a medium heat and cook, stirring constantly, for 15 minutes, until brown and jammed. Remove from heat and put in a large bowl the chicken, Parmesan, vinegar, dill, kimchi, eggs, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a fine grind of pepper, then mix well.
Now for kreplach. Take a wonton wrapper and place one and a half teaspoons of the filling mixture in the middle. Wipe around the edges of the pastry with water, then fold the wrapper in half to make a triangle. Pinch around the edges, to seal. With the longer side of the pastry triangle facing you, wash the left and right corners with water, bring them together in the middle, and press to seal—you should be left with something like tortellini. Repeat with the remaining wonton casings and filling.
Put the stock pot over medium heat and prepare it for steam cooking. Meanwhile, boil a large pot of lightly salted water. In two batches, boil the crepes in water for three minutes, drain them well, and then divide them into four large bowls. Pour hot broth on top, sprinkle over dill and serve.
Roast vegetables and eggs with paprika sausage
What’s better than a roast dinner for a (late!) breakfast? I guess it depends on the hangovers, although this bubble and squeak-inspired dish would definitely hit the spot. I’ve included instructions on making the mashed potatoes, but if you have some leftovers, use them instead.
to equip 20 minutes
cook 1 hour
500 gm Maris Piper Potatoes
fine sea salt
50 ml double cream
75gm unsalted butter
500g leftover grilled vegetables I used potatoes, carrots, parsnips, and cabbage
210gm pork sausage (that is, about 3), the covers have been removed
½ teaspoon smoked sweet paprika
8 small eggs – medium (Big eggs will be too big and make the dish spill)
20g coriander leaves and stemsfinely chopped
1-2 green onionspeeled and finely chopped (25 g)
1 small garlic clovepeeled and powdered
1 lemon Fine grated to get 1 teaspoon, then juice to get 2 teaspoons
1 teaspoon cumin seedsroasted, then crushed in a mortar
10 gm parmesan cheeseFinely grated, to the end
First, prepare the mash (if you are using leftovers, you will need about 500 grams). Put the potatoes in a small saucepan, add enough water to cover them by about 3 cm, then season with 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring to a gentle boil, then simmer for 20 minutes, until completely cooked.
Drain the potatoes in a colander, put the pan on the stove again and add the double cream and 40 grams of butter. Run the potatoes through a potato press directly into the pan and use a spoon to mix in the butter and cream, making sure not to over-mash. Remove from the fire and set aside. Once the puree has cooled a bit, chop all the rest of the roasted vegetables into about 5cm pieces, then flip them into the mashed potato pan.
Put the sausage meat and smoked paprika in a shallow cast-iron saucepan 26 cm in diameter with a lid, then cook over medium heat, stirring to break up the meat until fully cooked. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl and set it aside.
Wipe the sausage pan, put it on high heat, add 25 grams of butter, and when it melts, put a spoonful in the vegetable puree mixture and grill and distribute it evenly on the base of the pan. Leave to cook for five minutes, until edges begin to turn golden brown.
Lay a dish with a larger diameter than the pan upside down, placing one hand on the bottom of the pan and the other on the bottom of the dish with a heat-resistant cloth in each hand. In one quick motion, turn the skillet upside down to flip the potato mixture onto the plate. Carefully stir the potato mixture with the brown side up in the skillet and bring it back to medium heat.
Make eight large wells in the potato mixture. Divide the remaining 10g of butter between the eight wells, and once it melts and bubbles, crack an egg in each and let it simmer for five minutes. Cover the pan and cook for another six minutes, at which point the eggs should be cooked. Remove from heat and leave to cool slightly. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix together the cilantro, green onion, garlic, lemon juice, peel, and cumin, one-eighth teaspoon salt.
Pour the cilantro sauce and sausage meat mixture over the egg and potato mixture, spread over the finely grated Parmesan cheese and serve straight from the skillet.
Vegetable pancakes with tamarind yogurt
These pancakes are very versatile, so add any cooked vegetables and herbs you have to turn over to the batter base.
to equip 20 minutes
cook 35 minutes
120 grams plain flour
Sea salt and black pepper
300g leftover grilled vegetablescoarsely chopped
4 green onions (80 g), trimmed and cut into thin circles
30 grams corianderfinely chopped, plus 1 tablespoon extra leaves, for serving
6 garlic clovespeeled and powdered
30 gm piece of fresh gingerroughly peeled and grated
2 red peppers (20g), finely chopped (remove core and seeds and discard if you like less heat)
2 teaspoons cumin seedsroasted and powdered in a mortar
2½ teaspoons coriander seedsroasted and powdered in a mortar
150 ml sunflower oilfor frying
To prepare tamarind yogurt
220 g greek yogurt
60 ml tamarind paste
30 ml maple syrup
Sea salt and black pepper
First, make the mixture. Put the flour and eggs in a large bowl with ½ teaspoon of peeled salt and a fine grind of pepper, then mix them into a smooth mixture. Stir all remaining mixture ingredients into the oil until they are all covered with the sticky mixture.
Pour the oil into a medium skillet over medium heat, and once it warms up, pour in 70g spoonfuls of the mixture and cook in batches for three or four minutes on each side, until completely golden; Use a spatula to flatten the pies slightly when turning them over. Transfer the mixture to a plate lined with kitchen paper and keep warm while repeating until all of the mixture is used up.
Meanwhile, mix the yogurt in a small bowl with 1/4 teaspoon salt. In another small bowl, mix the tamarind paste and maple syrup, then stir in the yogurt.
Arrange the pancakes on a plate, sprinkle cilantro leaves and 1/4 teaspoon salt on top and serve warm with yogurt to dip side by side.