Nigel Slater’s Recipe for Chorizo ​​Broth, Peaches, Almonds, and Baked Pears with Oloroso | Autumn food and drink

A cold night brought the idea of ​​a dark, luxurious stew, black as licorice, sweet with plum and spice from roughly ripped lengths of chorizo.

There was a touch of the Middle East to this dinner. The classic pairing of meat and fruit, but also spices – I used ground cinnamon, coriander and cumin. Once the sausage and peaches simmer, there is an innate softness, almost velvety quality to the sauce. I include a drizzling of crunchy crumbs with orange and rosemary zest, adding for contrast and to thicken the cooking juices, but also to use the end of the loaf whose presence has been haunting me.

Recipes like these—some might call them roast, others a casserole—are something I like to pull off a plate with a coarse piece of flatbread. Others may prefer simple pilau rice, lightly scented with lemon peel and coriander or drizzled with toasted cumin seeds. It’s hard to think of anything more appropriate.

I like the depth that plums add to this, but there’s no reason not to use apricots if you prefer something a bit sharper. Figs may be a very sweet addition, but they are well worth a try.

The first pears of the season arrived in stores. Some are worth keeping for a few weeks, flipping them every day until they reach their moment of perfection. In my experience, this is a matter of days, so keep a close eye on them so they don’t turn into a melted, grainy sorbet. Hard pears are good for cooking. A slow paddle in light sugar syrup with lemon is my favorite recipe, but I think it could be more interesting when roasted with a sprinkle of sherry and fruit jelly – perhaps apple or marmalade. While the pears are roasting, it is best to brush them or turn them over with a bright citrus sauce. Eat as good as warm autumn pudding, but also cold for Sunday breakfast.

Chorizo, plum and almond

Rice Pilau is a fairly satisfying accompaniment here. Serves 3-4

Cooking soft chorizo 450 grams
olive oil 2 tablespoons
red onion 1, big
mushroom 3, medium
soft dried peach 125 grams
peeled almond 50 g
cumin seeds 1 teaspoon
coriander seeds 1 teaspoon
ground cinnamon ½ teaspoon
chicken stock 500 ml

Bread crumbs:
butter 50 g
Bread crumbs 75g
Zest the orange From the fruit of a small fruit
parsley 4 tablespoons chopped

Cut the chorizo ​​into pieces the length of the wine corks. Rough cuts are better than straight edges cut with a knife. Heat the oil in a saucepan over moderate heat, then add the chorizo ​​and let it cook for 3 or 4 minutes until it starts to color and the oil in the skillet turns a delicious rust color. Remove the chorizo ​​with a draining spoon and set aside.

Meanwhile, peel and roughly chop the onion, add to the skillet and continue to cook until it begins to soften and becomes translucent. Cut the mushrooms into 1 cm thick pieces, then add them to the onions, let them cook in the chorizo ​​oil and absorb its flavor. Return sausage to skillet, and add plums and whole almonds. Set oven to 180°C / gas mark 4.

Grind the cumin and coriander seeds to a fine powder in a pestle and mortar, then add the cinnamon and toss with the onion, sausage and mushroom mixture.

Add chicken broth, season with salt and pepper, bring to a boil, then cover with a lid and transfer to the oven to bake for about 45 minutes.

To make the banjaratto: Melt the butter in a shallow skillet over moderate heat, add the breadcrumbs, and simmer until golden, stirring regularly. Add the grated parsley and a pinch of coarse salt and stir.

Put the soup in a serving dish, spread the seasoned crumbs on top and serve.

Baked pear with marmalade and oloroso

Dark stars: Baked pears with marmalade and oloroso. Photography: Jonathan Lufkin/The Observer

Watch the sauce while it is cooking. You want it to be thick enough to cover the pear lightly, but be careful not to caramelize it in the liquid toffee. Serves 4

Fine or granulated sugar 125 grams
pear 4, medium
Lemon 1, medium
Orange jam 350 grams
oloroso or other medium sweet sherry 125 ml
Dried berries or raisins 3 tablespoons

Make a light syrup: put sugar in a small saucepan, add 500 ml of water and bring to a boil. Peel the pear and leave the stems intact. Cut the lemon in half, squeeze the juice into the pan and reduce the heat until the syrup boils.

Lower the pears into the syrup, partially cover them with a lid, and leave to ripen. Depending on the variety and maturity of the pears, expect them to be ready in about 20 to 35 minutes. Test it with a skewer – it should slide easily.

Keep the pears away from the heat. Set oven to 200°C / gas mark 6. Place a roasting pan over moderate heat, add marmalade and sherry and bring to a boil. Add the dried fruit – berries or raisins – then remove the pears from the pan and lower them into the roasting pan.

Pour 125 ml of pear syrup, pour into the oven and bake for about 25 minutes.

The pears are ready when the sauce is thick and boiling. Serve it in small bowls and put the sauce on it with a spoon.

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