Hip mole and tenguayaca, the dishes recommended by AMLO

President Andrés Manuel López Obrador took advantage of the last minutes of his morning conference today to make a series of recommendations for little-known traditional dishes that, in his opinion, are “succulent.”

“It’s breakfast time, maybe today we’ll have cecina from Yecapixtla, chilaquiles, now we’re going to be talking more about the succulence of Mexican food, they would like elsewhere to have the variety of foods, stews, meals like in Mexico, and that has to do with our cultures,” he said.

He commented that in countries where one or two original cultures predominate, the gastronomic variety is reduced, contrary to what happens in Mexico, whose diversity of flora and fauna has provided that the food is varied and that it is currently considered one of the the best in the world. Even, he added, although not all is known.

López Obrador celebrated that Oaxacan, Yucatecan and Poblano dishes are world famous, as in the case of mole, but remarked that “there are many other dishes that are not known, for example, the succulent hip mole from Tehuacán.”

The president explained that this dish has a similar origin to the feijoada that is prepared in Brazil, which was devised by the slaves during the colonial era from the leftovers that the landowners left behind from the pigs. “They kept the pulp and everything else was thrown away and the slaves collected it: the head, the snout, the legs and all that they did with black beans and from there came the feijoada”.

In addition, he took the opportunity to promote some of the traditional foods that are also found in other entities, such as Tabasco, although he warned that many dishes are not currently made due to the overexploitation of local fauna.

“In my state they are turtles, they can no longer be eaten because we have to take care of nature, but it was a small turtle, which is called a pochitoque, it was eaten. There is another one called mojina and that one was not eaten because it was said that it cried, but then the turtle and the freshwater turtle also, in blood, is a dish from before, especially during Holy Week, ”he added.

In this sense, the head of the federal Executive stressed that the turtles were dishes consumed mostly at Easter, until the population began to consume more fish, due to its price.

“Robalo, the mojarra, but the native one, which there are hardly any mojarras anymore, which is exquisite, extraordinary, succulent, which is called tenguayaca, there are hardly any anymore, it can only be found at the Malpaso dam, because they need a special water with oxygen,” he warned.

He regretted that this type of specimens are difficult to obtain, since the type of fish that predominates in the market is tilapia, which, as he commented, is a species brought from Africa, which is reproduced en masse and often contains harmful elements such as hormones.

“When you go to a restaurant and say ‘fish fillet for sale’, there I recommend asking what kind of fish it is, because the one that predominates is the tilapia that is brought from China, and how do you produce that mojarra? Like chickens: with food and often it is food, it carries hormones, so you have to try to eat as naturally as possible, ”she asked.

Finally, the President recalled that in Tabasco the alligator gar “was food for the poor”, but over time it became very famous and is now an exquisite and popular dish. At the end of his lecture, he announced that he expected to eat cecina brought from Yecapixtla.

LP