MADRID (EFE).- The Association of Academies of the Spanish Language (Asale) is promoting the “Pan-Hispanic Dictionary of Gastronomy”, whose first fruits are expected to be presented at the IX International Congress of the Spanish Language, which will be held in March 2023 in Arequipa (Peru).
It will include dishes, products and culinary techniques, announced this Monday the congress coordinator, the Peruvian poet Alonso Ruiz Rosas, at the central headquarters of the Cervantes Institute in Madrid, during an act on the richness of the gastronomic language through thepicantes (houses of food) arequipeñas.
They are indigenous words such as chicha -a fermented drink that in the case of Arequipa is made with black corn or güiñapo-, origin first of the chicherías and later of thepicantes, since “picantitos” (spicy appetizers) were first added to the offer. ) to encourage drinking, and then dishes like chupes (a chicken, lamb, beef, or shrimp soup with potatoes and vegetables) and stews.
The chicherías appeared in the 16th century, when the cities founded after the Spanish conquest began to flourish, and they became “picanterías” from the 19th century.
They are “a culinary institution in Peru and particularly in Arequipa,” where they are recognized for “spaces of magnificent food and popular tradition, of sociability and democracy,” Ruiz Rosas stressed.
Always in the hands of women, they have preserved a traditional recipe book prepared “without any electrical device, slowly with firewood” and with the “artisanal blender” that is the batán, a kind of volcanic stone mortar, explained the spicy Mónica Huerta.
In addition to preserving the culinary tradition, the picadors preserve a wide vocabulary of Quechua, Aymara and, to a lesser extent, other native languages, whose voices are part of the “lonco” or chacarero language of the rural environment.
Words like “ocopa”, which defines a sauce of chili, onion, huacatay, peanuts or nuts; “llatán”, a spicy rocoto sauce; “sarza”, a garnish of onion, tomato, hot pepper, vinegar and oil with which to accompany the spicy pig’s trotters, or “jayarí”, a spicy snack, are some of those included in the dictionary.
According to Carmen Nogero, secretary general of Cervantes, gastronomy is a “powerful tool for teaching the language”, as well as a “succulent letter of international presentation”.